Testing The Waters

When a wave reaches the shallow shoreline of an ocean or other large body of water, the upper portion of the wave pitches forward and the wave begins to break—a motion often indicated by crests of foam called whitecaps. The size and forward motion of the wave subsequently diminish. The basic idea behind surfing is to ride the unbroken portion of a wave for as great a distance as possible, using a variety of maneuvers to speed up, slow down, and maneuver around the breaking portion of the wave. Proficient surfers continue to ride until the entire wave has broken and become whitewater.

In competition, shortboarders, longboarders and bodyboarders lock horns in a series of timed heats. There are a set quota of waves competitors are allowed to ride. Each competitor is judged on the tricks they attempt, and points are awarded based on the degree of difficulty and variety of maneuvers.

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